| 1. | Turn loose the org. Nuts (if they get stuck, stop at once, take a blade saw and a chisel)look at snowbums |
| 2. | Loosen the screw on the collector/pipe connection |
| 3. | best also on the interference interface (making it easier to take off the exhaust pipes |
| 4. | take off the exhaust pipes |
| 5. | take off (gasket) rings (Remember layout !! for reassembly!! using new ones is sometimes a good idea) |
| 6. | take off the nut from the pipe |
| 7. | Dip over the flange (without threads) to the pipes |
| 8. | Assemble the gasket/clamp rings (only one at the R45/65) |
| 9. | assemble the threaded semi cups (always 1x "I" and "V" marked together) on the exhaust port so it's in a line with the front line of the stub and fix it with the screws (M6x25) but do not tighten yet |
| 10. | fix the mating flange with screws (M6x30) and the washers to the clamp flange still do not tighten yet |
| 11. | Rotate the hole package to a position that you can reach al screws easily. Now tighten the threaded semi cups to the exhaust stub. (Please consider torque for M6 screws) |
| 12. | Now tighten the mating flange equally but not too tight! Do not tilt. The parts are from excellent and strong aluminum (AlZnMgCu1,5 - colorless anodized) and 12mm thick, but there's no need to squeez them too tight. It's enough when there no leak. If it should come loose, you can tighten it a little more with just an allen key in seconds. |
| 13. | I don't want to patronize you about the anti-seize you like to use at least for the screws, but you should use one at all! I preferr aluminum-, graphit- oder ceramik-paste /-spray. But who likes to use copper paste, why not. Just because there are some newer materials out there it does not say that the older ones didn't do the job. |